Alright, so I got this itch lately to dig into some real Chicago history, the messy kind, you know? Specifically, that whole Al Capone era. Sounded way more interesting than just hitting the Bean again. Figured there had to be spots left standing, whispers of that time. So last week, I dragged a buddy along for a proper history scavenger hunt.
The “Research” Phase (Mostly Googling)
First thing I did was fire up the laptop. Didn’t want to just wander around aimlessly. Tried searching “Al Capone buildings Chicago still standing.” Man, the web is full of stuff – half of it sounded like made-up ghost tours. Digging deeper, a few places kept popping up. St. Valentine’s Day Massacre site? Yep. His old hideouts? Supposedly a couple remained. His main hangouts? Gone, obviously, but I kept seeing this one hotel mentioned… Lexington Hotel? Seemed worth noting. Made a crude little list on a sticky note: Green Mill, Holy Name Cathedral, Mount Carmel Cemetery, that hotel, and the massacre site address.
Boots on the Ground – Capone’s Hangouts
Started near Uptown with the Green Mill. It was afternoon, place just opening. Staff were chill, letting us poke around since it was quiet. Walked right in! We snagged a seat in the dark corner booth – the one folks say was his spot. Felt kinda cool, imagining the deals going down over cocktails. Grabbed a quick drink just for the vibe. Staff confirmed the history, said he really did own it back then, controlled the booze flowing. Place screams 1920s – perfect.
Next stop was Holy Name Cathedral near downtown. Wasn’t sure what to expect, just knew Capone donated cash after a shooting messed up the building. Wondered if there was a plaque or something? Nope. Searched the outer wall near the main door where the brick looked different. Nothing obvious. Kinda anticlimactic, honestly. Just a beautiful old church now.
Payoff Spots – Green Door & Lexington
Then we tried finding some kind of Green Door Tavern? Found the tavern, looked old, but couldn’t figure out the green door part – maybe inside? Didn’t press it.
Now for the Lexington Hotel… or what’s left of it. Knew it got demolished years ago. Maps took us to a block near Michigan Avenue. Saw… a huge apartment building? Totally normal looking, surrounded by other buildings. Walked the whole block, peeking down alleys. Found a big empty lot fenced off on one side, some hotel across the street… nada. What a joke! Turns out maybe the site is near that condo, but it’s just… nothing. Parking and condos now. So much for seeing even a trace.
Gangster Graves & The Infamous Garage
Hopped in the car and headed south to Mount Carmel Cemetery in Hillside. Big place! Found the Capone family plot after circling a bit. The big stone is… well, big. “My Jesus Mercy” on top. Surprised how many people were coming by to see it! Johnny Torrio’s is nearby too – smaller, plainer. Standing there looking at those names carved in stone… makes you think about how it all ends, the fear they must have lived with.
Last stop was the massacre site on N. Clark Street. Knew it’d just be a parking lot, and yeah, it totally is. Looks like maybe a nursing home sits there now? But there’s a brick wall on one side, tucked back from the street. Walked down the alley next to it and spotted it – a modest plaque, kind of grimy, just nailed to the bricks. Hardly noticeable unless you’re looking. Just states what happened there, February 14, 1929. Seven guys. Standing where it went down, even covered in asphalt now, gives you the creeps. Hard to imagine the noise, the blood.
Final Takes
- Green Mill was the winner. Actually felt the history, lived-in.
- The grave is stark, worth the trip.
- The massacre plaque hits different knowing the brutality.
- The search for the Lexington? Total goose chase.
- Holy Name Cathedral? Just a church now, no visible scars.
It’s crazy walking past these spots every day, most people clueless about the madness that happened right under their feet. So much has been paved over, rebuilt. Makes Capone himself feel almost like a ghost story, but knowing where to look? Yeah, you can still find echoes. Barely worth the drive looking for a hotel sign, but the rest? Solid history trip. Makes you appreciate Chicago’s layers, even the ugly ones.
